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What expenses should I include in a simple budget?

Include rent, utilities, subscriptions, debt minimums, transport, insurance, and other committed costs. Do not demand perfect categorization.

Feb 20, 2026·6 min read

The question of what counts as an "essential" is where most simple budgets get complicated. It does not need to be.

The simple test

Ask yourself one question about each expense: "Would I have to pay this even if I spent nothing on anything else?"

If the answer is yes, it is an essential. If the answer is no, it is spending money.

That is the entire categorization system. You do not need subcategories. You do not need to debate whether groceries are essential (they are spending money — you choose how much to spend on food). You just need to know what is committed.

What to include

Here is a practical list of expenses that typically count as essentials:

  • Rent or mortgage — your housing payment
  • Utilities — electricity, water, gas, internet, phone
  • Insurance — health, renter's, auto, or any required coverage
  • Subscriptions with committed costs — only the ones you are locked into or genuinely need (cloud storage, a work-related tool, a phone plan)
  • Debt minimums — minimum payments on credit cards, student loans, car loans
  • Transport — car payment, transit pass, fuel for commuting
  • Childcare or dependent care — if it is a fixed committed cost
  • Any other fixed recurring payment — anything that hits your account on a schedule and does not change based on your behavior

The distinction

Essentials are costs you owe no matter what. Spending money is everything else — food, entertainment, clothing, optional purchases. You decide how to spend it. The essentials are already decided.

What to exclude

These are not essentials, even though they might feel necessary:

  • Groceries — you have to eat, but you choose how much to spend. A $15 meal and a $45 meal are both "food." The variable part is spending money.
  • Dining out — always spending money
  • Entertainment — spending money
  • Clothing — spending money, unless it is a required uniform
  • Gifts — spending money
  • Hobbies — spending money
  • Gym memberships — spending money, unless you are locked into a contract

The reason these are excluded from essentials is not that they are unimportant. It is that you control the amount. Essentials are fixed. Spending money is variable.

The gray areas

Some expenses are genuinely ambiguous. Here is how to handle them:

Fuel for non-commuting driving. Your commute fuel is essential. Weekend driving is spending money. If you do not want to split this, include your average monthly fuel total as an essential and accept a slightly higher essential figure.

Groceries that include household supplies. Toilet paper and cleaning supplies are necessary, but they are mixed in with food spending. Include a rough estimate in your essentials if you want, or treat the whole category as spending money. Either way works.

Medical costs. Regular prescriptions and copays are essential. Unexpected medical costs are not budgetable in the same way — they are what savings and buffers are for.

Streaming services. If you have five streaming subscriptions, they are probably spending money. If you have one that you use daily and would not cancel, you can include it as an essential. Be honest with yourself.

The principle

When in doubt, put it in spending money. Overestimating essentials gives you a lower daily number, which is safer. Underestimating essentials gives you a higher daily number that might not be real.

How to list your essentials

You do not need a spreadsheet. You need a list. Here is the fastest way:

  1. Open your bank account. Look at the last 30 days of transactions.
  2. Find every recurring charge. These are usually the same amount, on the same day, every month.
  3. Write them down with amounts. Rent, utilities, subscriptions, debt payments, insurance.
  4. Add them up. That is your essentials total.

This takes about five minutes. If you forget something, you will notice when the charge hits. Add it then. Your number adjusts.

How accurate does this need to be

Your essentials total needs to be close, not perfect. If your actual essentials are $1,850 and you estimated $1,800, your daily number will be slightly higher than it should be. You will notice over a few weeks because your spending money will run out before the month ends.

At that point, you update your essentials figure. The number adjusts. You continue.

This is the system working. You do not need to get it right on the first try. You need to get it close, then refine as reality provides feedback.

What about annual or quarterly expenses

Some costs do not come every month — car insurance every six months, an annual subscription, property tax. These are still essentials, but they need to be handled differently:

  • Divide the annual cost by 12. If your car insurance is $600 every six months, that is $100 per month.
  • Include the monthly portion in your essentials. This way, you are setting aside money each month for the eventual bill.
  • When the bill arrives, the money is already accounted for. Your daily number does not crash because you planned for it.

If you use Depo, you can include these as monthly essentials and the daily number will reflect them automatically. See how Depo turns the rest of your month into one daily number.

What about debt

Minimum debt payments are essentials. Anything above the minimum is savings (if you consider paying down debt a form of saving, which is reasonable).

Do not include extra debt payments in your essentials total. Include only the minimum you are required to pay. If you want to pay more, that comes from spending money or savings, depending on how you prioritize.

This article is general guidance, not financial advice. For questions about debt management strategies, consult a qualified professional.

The bottom line

Essentials are costs you owe no matter what. List them, total them, and subtract them from your income before calculating your daily number. Do not demand perfect categorization. A rough total that is close is better than a detailed breakdown that takes an hour and never gets updated.

The goal is a useful number, not a perfect spreadsheet.

One clear number

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